Mariellen Ward

I have also bought a lot of Indian souvenirs over the years, and things that were specialties of the region I was travelling in such as wall hangings in Rajasthan, silk saris in Varanasi, India, and mala beads in Rishikesh. For more information read my Delhi Travel Guide: • Connaught Place is the commercial centre of Delhi, and it’s good for the Janpath souvenir market, plus men’s clothes, khadi, packaged spices, books. I wasted a lot of money by buying things the first time I saw them – like a peacock feather fan, fabulous-looking but horribly uncomfortable shoes and a lot of jewelry that broke on the second wearing. If I had to do it all over again, I would buy fewer things, and spend more time and money ensuring I was buying good quality.

With each pull of the oars we crept along the surface of India’s most sacred river, past the scythe-like curve of ghats (steps) that line the western shore, towards Dasaswamedh Ghat, the main ghat, and the aarti (ceremony). Finally we reached Manikarnika Ghat, the main cremation ghat, one of the oldest and most sacred ghats in Benares. Lights began to appear and shimmer gently on the crystal surface of the sacred river and soon after the aarti began, way down the river at the main ghat. I lit two diyas that I had purchased from the urchins on the ghats, spoke the time immemorial prayer to the mother of India, Jai Ganga Mata, and set them afloat on the river in the twilight as the boatman rowed me back to shore.

At the end of my first trip to India – six deeply immersed months, living in Delhi with my new Indian boyfriend, traveling from Kanyakumari to Dharamsala and studying yoga in several ashrams – I didn’t want to leave so badly, I felt sick. you worry your brain will melt; you can never get the right advice, directions or change; you have to watch every thing you put in your mouth, even making sure it’s closed tight in the shower; the train is late, the car breaks down, the driver doesn’t listen; your white clothes come back from the laundry grey; you see the same shawl for half the price, half an hour later; the thin, naked child turning somersaults at the corner breaks your heart; and the sight of an old woman carrying a basket of bricks on her head in the heat of the day fills you with stifled anguish. If you enjoyed this post… Please sign up to The Travel Newsletter in the sidebar and follow Breathedreamgo on all social media platforms including Instagram, TripAdvisor, Facebook, Pinterest, and Twitter.

Mumbai (formerly known as Bombay) is one of the biggest and most densely packed cities on earth, India’s economic engine and the home of Bollywood, the glamour factory that makes more movies than anywhere else – more than twice as many as Hollywood. 6665 3366 7 pm ~ WATCH THE SUNSET SINK INTO THE ARABIAN SEA Make use of prime sunset time to walk along Marine Drive from Nariman Point to Chowpatty Beach and watch the red-orange ball sink into the choppy waters of the Arabian Sea. At the end of the two-mile walk you will reach the circus atmosphere and food stalls of Chowpatty Beach: reward yourself by trying fragrant, spicy bhelpuri (less than $1), the ubiquitous street food of Mumbai; or stop by the iconic Cream Centre, a veg-only snack bar that’s been serving delicious puris, samosas (about $3) and sundaes (about $5) for more than 40 years. 5401 Take in the view of the Queen’s Necklace at night – the graceful curve of glittering lights along Marine Drive, by the edge of the Arabian Sea – and rub shoulders with the glitterati at Dome, the InterContinetal Hotel’s romantic rooftop lounge.