thevintagelibrarian.blogspot.com

Though some of these American Designers are names we are familiar with - like Suzy Perrette -- Carolyn Schnurer is someone I'd never heard of. Turns out that Ms. Schnurer was originally an art teacher in the New York Public School system, but by the late 40s, she was one of the most popular swimsuit designers out there, and was also known for her sportswear. I guess I wasn't too far off the mark thinking Claire McCardell, who was one of the original sportswear designers, having also been on the board of Sports Illustrated. I wonder how a public school teacher had the money -- though I suppose if she was a popular enough designer, it wouldn't be hard.

According to Mary Brooks Pickens' booklet "Dresses, Part I," published by the Women's Institute of Domestic Arts and Sciences (multiple printings, starting in 2016, but the one I have is from 1921),"it might be said that a dress is an outer garment for women and children, the term applying to simple or complicated constructions, whether made in one piece or of a separate waist and a separate skirt, in harmonizing materials. The term gown refers also to an outer garment for women that is either close or loose fitting, rich in fabric, and beautiful in line, the term being particularly applicable to all dresses with trains.""A dress may be made of gingham, muslin, taffeta or chiffon, that is, of cheap or expensive material, and yet be properly called a dress. In speaking of such a garment for the mature woman, it would seem that the term dress is most befitting; but in referring to the young miss or the young matron, especially if it is attractive, bespeaks a correct assemblage of style features, and carries a suggestion of the prevailing mode, it may be correctly called a frock, because the very smartness of the name gives a clear mind picture of the actual garment. The word gown, however suggests drapery, long flowing lines and stateliness; it would indeed be very inappropriate to refer to a garment developed in dignified line and of exquisite fabric by any other word except gown."To be sure, even Ms. Brooks Pickens said that the words were defined in different ways by different people during this time, so it's no wonder that we are confused now.

This era of McCall's patterns are some of my favorites but despite selling sewing patterns for over 15 years, I'd never heard of Hannah Troy, so I went to do some research. The fashions coming out of Dior right now are absolutely atrocious, but people like Jennifer Lawrence are contracted to wear them, so out this beautiful girl walks in some of the most heinous stuff I've seen in years. And people like Reese Witherspoon and Taylor Swift do a sidewalk sashay in designer fashions where at least they look cute, but I'm sure are attached to contracts or at least financial reimbursements. Back in Ms Troy's day, I'm not sure that it was the case that the stars were paid to wear the fashions.

When fabric began being rationed in 1942 -- everything was saved for the war effort -- designers had to be especially creative. Clothing of this era usually lacked buttons, lace, or embellishments, and were shorter in length than prior to the war. (If you were a bride, or were pregnant, the rules were different.)I like this 1943 dress because it shows the creativity used to create a fashionable day look while not having all the frippery. The bow could be made from a remnant, and although Style A (on the left) looks like the cutouts may have lace to fill them, the instructions do not mention it.