Giuseppe Amato

Something really funny I’ve discovered is that many modern Italian/Neapolitan culinary staples were first mentioned in a 1839 cook book called La cucina teorica-pratica wrote by a Neapolitan aristocrat named Ippolito Cavalcanti, Duke of Bonvicino, who was born, by a funny and remarkable coincidence, in the same town where I was born, called Afragola, right outside Naples, and we both were/are food lovers and pivoted our careers from something else to food. a bollire con acqua a sufficienza, facendola bollire per due ore, finchè si riduca in gelatina, ci porrai un pane di butiro e un poco di sale, e le farai continuare a bollire per un altro poco; di poi farai bollire separatamente due carafe di latte, mettendoci once quattro di zucchero; unirai il latte nella zucca, e passerai al setaccio; laddove fosse in certo denso, terrain pronto dell’altro latte, e ce lo porrai ancora; farai di bel sei pagnotte piccolissimi bruscati crostini, che porrai in zuppiera versandoci al di sopra quel brodo. e you will cut it in very small pieces, and you will put in a copper pot to boil with enough water for about two hours, until it gets very jelly, you will add some butter and a pinch of salt, and you will cook it for a little longer; separately you will bring two pitchers of milk with four ounces of sugar to boil; you will join the milk to the pumpkin, and if it happens to be still too dense, you will have saved some milk to add it; you will cut sex bread rolls into tiny pieces and toast them, that you will put at the bottom of the soup tureen and you will pour the broth over it.

The first recipe I want to tell you about is “escarole and red beans soup” because it is such a simple and frugal dish, that reminds me when my ancestors had to feed the whole family in such hard times, with locally grown and poor ingredients. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, until prosciutto gets slightly crunchy and garlic has softened and is just beginning to turn lightly golden, about 5 minutes. Add beans and soaking water (if using dried beans) or stock (if using canned beans), season lightly with salt (remember prosciutto or guanciale are already salty themselves) and let it cook for 30/40 minutes or until cooked, stirring occasionally. Right before the beans are cooked, add the chopped escarole and let is cook for bit, stirring occasionally till thickened and soften.

One of the dishes that my grandma used to make in the summer, typically on Fridays or Saturdays after Mimí arrivals, was squid or so called “calamari” simply sautéed in a saucepan with extra virgin olive oil, fresh sweet peas and sun-ripen “cieliegini” (cherry tomatoes) harvested in grandpa “ Neapolitans love squid, and we cook it in any possible way, “in casseruola” sautéed, fried “calamari”, grilled or stuffed and baked… • 1 lbs sweet peas, still in the pods ) Separate the tentacles from the long body of the calamari, if not done already. In a saucepan, heat olive oil add garlic and basil and let it cook, about 5 minutes. Add some water, salt and black pepper and let calamari cook for about 10-15 minutes

Then I struggled to find that kind of flavors that reminded me home, and I started realizing that in New York this so-celebrated “Italian food” is not even close to what I grew up eating and inspired me as a little child. The first recipe I want to tell you about is “escarole and red beans soup” because it is such a simple and humble dish, that reminds me when my ancestors had to feed the whole family in such hard times, with locally grown and poor ingredients. Brothy cooked-from-dried beans and hearty greens like escarole, Tuscan kale or chard, which can last for a long time in the fridge, together create dishes that are simple, quick, filling and healthy, especially in this moment of difficulties Rinse the beans few times, put them in a large bowl with water, chopped vegetables, and let it soak, possible overnight. Amato | Cibo is journey back to Naples and my childhood memories, inspired by simple ingredients, standout flavors and great hospitality.