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Take the iconic picture of the Mezquita tower peeking up from between whitewashed alleyway walls at the end of Calleja de las Flores Explore the awe-inspiring ruins at Medina Azahara (the newest of Córdoba’s four UNESCO World Heritage sites! ) Why, Córdoba? ), the largest stretch of free-tapas-with-your-drink bars in the city Climb the Calahorra Tower to check out the views, then visit the small but fascinating museum inside People-watch and enjoy the ambiance in Plaza de la Corredera Treat yourself to some well-deserved R&R at the gorgeous Arab Baths Say hello to the ducks at the Jardín de los Patos Enjoy a horse show at the Royal Stables, dating from the 16th century Devour the best local bites that are at their best here in the region where they were born: salmorejo (similar to gazpacho but better, IMO), rabo de toro (bull’s tail), and fried eggplant in honey, with a slice of pastel cordobés for dessert Check out what’s on at the Palacio de la Rio Enjoy the lively ambiance in Plaza del Potro, preferably in the evening before it gets dark when they turn the fairy lights on and it feels almost magical Drink craft beers from all over the world at La Trappería, or those brewed right here in Córdoba at Califa Shop till you drop on Calles Concepción and José Cruz Conde Eat a flamenquín as long (and as thick) as your arm at Bonillo Take in the views from the other side of the bridge at Parque de Miraflores Drive (or hike, or take the bus part of the way and then hike) up to Las Ermitas and enjoy the peace and quiet Or, check out a show at Teatro de la Axerquía or the Caseta Municipal (Ricky Martin had a concert at the latter just a few weeks ago) Discover the gastro-heaven that is Mercado Victoria Wander into one of the dozens of beautiful churches dotted throughout the city Find great deals at the Arenal flea market every Sunday morning Learn something new at an interesting museum, like the Museo Arqueológico or the Museo Julio Romero de Torres Catch a soccer game at Arcángel Stadium (Córdoba’s team isn’t very good, but there’s something about the energy of a live sporting event that makes that seem less important) Walk across the Roman Bridge at sunset, enjoying the fading light of the day and the sounds of one of the talented street musicians as background music to your charming European adventure
The historic village just half an hour outside of Córdoba teems with history, especially its most imposing monument: the awe-inspiring castle towering over the town. In fact, it dates back to Spain’s Moorish days—the 8th century—and, remarkably, looks much the same as it originally did thanks to careful restorations in the early 20th century. The castle also boasts nine towers, all of which offer incredible views of the village of Almodóvar and the surrounding countryside. So many people never stay longer than a day in Córdoba itself, opting to tack it on as a day trip from Seville or Granada.
In the back of my mind, I’d known that, but it didn’t seem real—like when you can’t remember if you dreamed about an event or if it actually happened. From the good (enjoying an hours-long meal out on a sunny terrace with good food, good wine and good friends) to the bad (dealing with, uh, the emergency room, as mentioned above) to the ugly (having to defend myself in Spanish to my ruthless ex-roommate who hated me for no known reason), every situation I successfully navigate en español makes me feel more and more like I belong here. Every time I can recommend things to do or places to eat here in Cordoba—or even in any other city I’ve visited here in Spain—to a tourist, it’s hard not to feel proud. It’s something I think about every time I write here, but I’m also terrible at thinking up these things.
American expats Cat Gaa and Hayley Salvo, who have each called Spain home for more than a decade, are the masterminds behind COMO Consulting, a relocation assistance service specializing in helping non-EU citizens navigate their move to Spain. The book is organized in chronological order, starting with packing tips and accompanying you through every step of the way on your journey to Spain: legal paperwork, the apartment hunt, phones and internet, banking, healthcare, getting around, Spanish schools, teaching private lessons, and Spanish culture. As the next group of language assistants, teachers and expats arrive in Spain over the next few weeks, it’s hard not to think about how I was in their shoes just a few short years ago. Thanks to Cat and Hayley from COMO Consulting for providing me with a copy of Moving to Spain.