Susanna Shankar

Kitselas Canyon, a National Historic Site of Canada, was once home to six villages of the Gitselasu Indigenous Peoples, dating back 6,000 years. The banks of the Skeena River were a thriving commerce hub. The Gitselasu (meaning people of the canyon) controlled trade with other Indigenous groups and the Hudson’s Bay Company. As smallpox tore through the villages, no vaccine was given to the Indigenous people despite being available. Historic villages were abandoned. The surviving Gitselasu now live in a modern town. Their ancestral home is a river canyon surrounded by forest, with numerous artifacts, such as petroglyphs, forest gardens, village remains, and caches. As we left the volcanic lands of the Nass Valley and the town of Terrace, we continued our journey along the Skeena River. Ganesh and I settled in for a longer drive that day when I opened maps and saw a site that piqued my curiosity- Kitselas Canyon. We pulled off Highway 16, making a snap decision to detour. It was mid-week shoulder season. As the only car in the lot, the Gitselasu land steward and guide asked if we were okay with a self-guided tour. We happily paid our entrance fee and took off on our own, starting with four small museums, each one designed to honor a Gitselasu Clan: Wolf (Laxgibuu), Eagle (Laxgiik), Raven (Ganhada), Orca (Gispudwada). One housed a biodiversity museum, one archaeology finds and artifacts, another cultural information, and one was under maintenance. We began the walk through the forest, eventually coming to 4 modern clan poles and an ancient canoe. We diverted to a site along the river where a village once stood. The roaring Skeena shapes the land, taking full-size trees down the river and carving through the massive rock features. We continued to a viewing dock overlooking the river. Somewhere in the canyon were the unmarked caves where Shamans entered, and petroglyphs depicting people and animals were carved. Kitselas Canyons is a fantastic cultural and historical stop on Highway 16. Admission $10. Closed in winter. Guided tours depart daily (10am; 1pm) during summer. Have you visited a national historic site in Canada?

I was first introduced to regenerative tourism in early 2020. At that time, the pandemic rocked the global industry, devastating tourism-reliant communities and exposing many of its faults. Tourism academics, communities, and environmental experts renewed their calls for reform, moving the sector toward one that could restore and build resilience. I was just starting my Master’s in Biodiversity and connecting my tenure in sustainable travel with a more environmental and academic side. While isolated examples of regenerative tourism have been around for a while (gorilla trekking), the work of tourism expert Anna Pollock on the Visit Flanders: Travel to Tomorrow initiative really put it on the map. The concept of regenerative tourism grew, and many destinations globally have used the time since the pandemic to incorporate regenerative models into their broader destination management. Regenerative tourism helps them foster thriving nature and communities while offering better-quality experiences for travelers. As the world opened up again, I had just graduated. After spending an entire year researching tourism’s negative impacts (and ways to leverage nature-based solutions to address these issues), I wasn’t sure where my relationship with tourism stood. I was unsure if the industry could live up to its potential as the “good industry.” Those who have followed me for a while know I almost walked away from tourism. But this industry is worth sticking around for, and it needs people to advocate for reform. Around that time, I visited Kakadu National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and Biosphere Reserve. There, I had the honor of engaging in regenerative tourism for the first time, reigniting my spark and love for travel. I remember thinking,” This is why I fell in love with travel. This is tourism living up to its potential.” I want to inspire more to seek out and support these transformational experiences, starting with learning about regenerative tourism. This 3-part social series complements a comprehensive post now on curiositysavestravel.com Join the discussion using the prompts on the last slide! I can't wait to hear your thoughts.

The mysterious, lava-formed landscapes of the Nass Valley are a sight to behold, but the people and culture truly make a visit here worthwhile. Our journey led us to the Visitor Center, where we met Sylas, a Nisga'a member who warmly welcomed us. I asked about his clan, and he proudly said he was Eagle. I carefully broached the topic of the Nisga'a treaty. He clarified that each Nisga'a person feels differently about the treaty and not to put his words in the mouths of others. Some felt the treaty wasn’t enough, but, for him personally, with his heart, eyes, and mind open, he noticed the positive changes in his lifetime brought about by the treaty. He said the road to reconciliation is still long and challenging, but he was hopeful for the future. Sylas plans to eventually become an elder and was happy to share Nisga'a stories. We asked about EV chargers in the valley. One was installed near the museum but wasn't operational yet. He gave us names of people in towns if we needed a charge. We somehow knew we wouldn’t be stranded if our battery died. As we left, he shut the door so I could get the perfect picture. Ganesh commented I had a way of engaging with Sylas and the Haida we met on Haida Gwaii; I reflected that when visiting places with Indigneous People, it is essential to research culture and traditions, similar to what one might do before traveling to Japan. Knowing a little about Nisga'a beforehand meant I could ask about clans as an easy icebreaker and a segue to learn more.  We drove slowly down a wooden bridge over a ravine. Four weathered monumental poles, two on either side, marked the entrance to Nisga'a Village Gitwinksihlkw (Git-win-silk)—one carved for each of the Nisga'a four clans: Wolf, Orca, Raven, and Eagle. Gitwinksihlkw is known as "place of the lizards." We learned that lizards roamed before the eruption, and oral stories link the eruption to their disappearance. We continued the Auto Tour but had to turn around before the last stop to ensure we had enough charge to get home. However, we returned to our cabin in Terrace with a 30% charge. The return was mostly downhill, allowing us to charge—something we didn't consider.

Are you curious how you can be rewarded for being a good tourist? What about if it involved picking up trash for coffee and a pastry? How about taking out a kayak for free as long as you pick up trash along your route?  If this sounds like your ideal way to travel, or you are heading to Copenhagen this summer, listen up! CopenPay is the new positive reward system for eco-actions launching in Copenhagen. Guests visiting Denmark’s capital from July 15- August 11 are invited to participate in the city’s green future by biking, volunteering, picking up trash, or joining a boat tour to discuss sustainability with like-minded travelers.  This comes when the WTTC predicts that 2024 will be a record-breaking year for travel and tourism, putting more pressure on cities experiencing tension with tourism. Copenhagen’s approach, leveraging positive psychology tactics, contrasts with fees and regulations across other European cities. Whether it's Venice's new tourist access fee, Barcelona's looming ban on transient vacation rentals, or alcohol restrictions in the Balearic Islands, Copenhagen is paving the way in a more welcoming and regenerative direction. Travelers get enriching and immersive experiences seeing Copenhagen’s highlights and uncovering hidden gems. Residents benefit from fewer emissions as more people opt to ride their bikes, less trash in their waterways, and a boost to businesses.  CopenPay builds on the city’s reputation as a top-ranked green destination. As this pilot program progresses through the summer, we will see how it can contribute to regenerative tourism and thriveability in Copenhagen.  “We must turn tourism from being an environmental burden into a force for positive change, and one important step in this transformation is to change how we move around the destination, what we consume, and how we interact with locals,” Mikkel Aarø-Hansen, CEO of Wonderful Copenhagen, said during the press release. @visitcopenhagen Visit Curiositysavestravel.com for the full story. Would you participate in a program like this? What do you think of this approach compared to fees implemented in places like Venice?

Welcome to Nass Valley, home of the Nisga’a (Nish-ka) First Nation, giant lizards, mountains, rivers, and a volcanic eruption that changed everything. One of the reasons for our BC road trip was to get acquainted with our new home - see the diverse landscapes and learn from First Nations. I went on this trip with an open mind, yet Nass Valley caught me off guard. I had to convince Ganesh to embark on the Nass Valley Auto Tour, a self-guided drive through Nisga'a and Lava Bed Memorial Provincial Park because we were pushing our EV range. I'm glad we went, as it was a highlight of the trip. In 2000, the Nisga’a Treaty, the first of its kind in BC, was signed after a 113-year fight for the Nisga’a to self-govern their nation and land—the provincial park is co-managed. The Nisga’a Nation created the tour to help us explore traditional lands while learning about culture, language, and mythology while contributing to cultural and natural revitalization in authentic regenerative tourism. There are 18 stops including villages, scenic vistas, cultural sites, and longer walks through the lands shaped by lava. 200+ years ago, a volcano erupted, covering the lands. 2 villages were buried, and 2,000 Nisga’a lost their lives. The area is sacred and a burial ground. You must stay on the designated trail, respect all signage, and join a guided tour with a Nisga'a member to see the crater and access sacred parts. The dry, arid lava flow is covered in porous rocks with lichen and moss clinging to life. Holes emerge from the engulfed trees. Oral stories say: Two children harmed a salmon, lighting it on fire, and were laughing at its struggle. Just as an elder warned them that hurting nature had consequences, the ground rumbled, and the volcano erupted, a sign nature’s harmony had been disrupted. Gwaxts’agat, a Supernatural, emerged, blocking the lava’s advance, plugging and cooling the volcano. The ecology of the Nass Valley and the entire way of life for the Nisga’a people changed after the eruption. The flow of rivers changed, trees were engulfed, animals perished, but the Nisga’a prevailed. Have you seen lava or a volcano? P.S. the eerie sky is from haze.

After a night departure from Haida Gwaii on BC Ferries, we arrived in Prince Rupert just before dawn. Our first stop was the BC Hydro fast charger, where we recharged and napped in the car. As the sun rose, we were fully charged and excited for the breathtaking drive ahead.  Our journey back to Vancouver was underway, but we still had ample time to savor our slow, sustainable EV Hydro-powered road trip and explore our new home province. The morning mist hung densely in the air. I tried to keep my spirits high, as we were supposed to be traversing one of BC's most stunning mountain passes, yet we could barely see 500 meters ahead.  The mist cleared just in time for our first views of the Skeena, BC's second-longest river and one of the province's most important arteries. Since time immemorial, the Tsimshian and Gitxsan First Nations have depended on the river for fish, transportation, and the sustenance of life in the valley. A sacred animal known as the Spirit Bear or Kermode, a subspecies of black bear, is somewhere in the thick forests beyond.  I would love to return to this river in the spring to see the Eulachon migration. This anadromous fish is considered the salvation fish for Indigenous people in the Pacific NW and Alaska. Their return marks the end of a long, harsh winter, bringing abundant life to places like the Skeena River. Seals, sea lions, eagles, bears, and people come to the waters to feast.  In Alaska, we called these candle-fish. They are so oily that you can ignite the whole fish, once dried, lighting the tail on fire to produce light. I had a tie on my recent poll on whether people wanted to see Alaska content or continue bringing you along in the passenger seat during our BC Road Trip. Next, we'll venture through lava fields and the Nisga’a Nation, visit cultural museums with repatriated artifacts, push the limits of our EV range, stay in cozy cabins, drive the highway of tears, see incredible nature, learn at historic sites, and witness devastating wildfires. Where is your favorite scenic drive?

Indigenous developed and led tourism = regenerative tourism Rather than treating tourism as an isolated industry, regenerative tourism becomes part of a living ecosystem that contributes to restoring places into thriving, healthy destinations. Cultural tourism manifests in different ways in models of extractive, sustainable, and regenerative tourism. 🚫 Extractive Tourism is tourism developed, created, and controlled by a few multinational companies to primarily benefit them at the cost of degrading the environment and culture. •Cultural practices used as a commodity for larger tour groups •Indigenous communities exploited for tourism •Inauthentic cultural exchange •Culture altered to appeal to foreigners •Decrease in quality of life of residents Loss of cultural skills and values •Community has no seat at the table ♻️ Sustainable tourism works with the community to minimize damage and sustain tourism resources. •Cultural experiences led by the community but may still be facilitated by foreign groups. •Travelers gain an understanding and appreciation of authentic culture •Culture is preserved •Experiences led by an Indigenous guide •Tourism supports traditional handicrafts, etc. •Improved quality of life, but primarily for those working in tourism •Community has a seat at the table 🌱 Regenerative tourism is part of an entire working ecosystem ingrained in destination management beyond tourism that benefits and restores culture and nature. •Cultural experiences designed and led by the community •Tourism contributes to cultural restoration and revitalization - repatriation of artifacts, language revitalization •Tourism is part of a system that improves life with a broad reach beyond those working in tourism •Immersive cultural exchange and deep understanding • Indigneous groups own and mange tourism facilities - hotels, restaurants, etc. •Community is the head of the table I have experienced cultural tourism in all three areas, and regenerative cultural tourism has been the most meaningful. What about you? June is Indigneous History Month in Canada. The Indigenous Tourism Association of Canada is a great resource for anyone visiting Canada.

One must-visit site on Haida Gwaii is the Haida Cultural Center. This month is Indigenous History Month in Canada. I want to share our emotional, difficult, yet important experience at the center. We paid for a longer guided tour. Our guide was a younger Haida woman who was studying to revitalize her culture. She approached difficult topics directly yet kindly to ensure we learned Haida culture and history through their lens without the rose glasses. We started with prehistory—the Haida origin stories and supernatural creators. Massive, colorful masks and carvings of these beings adorned the walls, encapsulating entire stories in a single piece of art. We learned about their village, clans, matriarchal structure, subsistence life, and monumental poles. Our guide's Indigenous knowledge regarding ecology was very different from mine. I enjoyed listening to her perspectives about the loss of otters and the introduction of beavers to Haida Gwaii. We worked our way toward colonization history and saw how clothing and art changed with trade. However, it wasn’t long until their autonomous trade options were taken away. Clear written records indicate intentional spreading of smallpox for “the extirpation of this execrable race”. Colonial Armies had been inoculated, but the Haida people were offered no treatment. The archipelago went from a bustling and thriving cultural center with many villages and cultural sites to a nearly 90% population loss through the years. The loss of cultural knowledge during this time was akin to burning 30,000 books. Other survivors were shipped off to residential schools. At the end of the tour, one piece of art hung on a wall created by children from residential schools. A vivid and dark image evoking trauma, torment, and pain of children. Our time with Mackenzie, our guide, was up. She left me crying but with a message of resilience for the Haida people and culture as they rebuilt. Take time to learn from Indigenous-curated museums and cultural centers or listen to history told by marginalized voices. Have you visited an important cultural center? Please share.

The Pesuta Shipwreck on Haida Gwaii is an interesting hike. We checked the tide timetable to ensure the tide was receding before leaving our beach-side accommodation to trudge along the several kilometers of strenuous terrain. Shorebirds hunted with the cadence of the waves, while large black albatross bobbed out in the ocean alongside the occasion seal. Many unfortunate jellyfish left behind dried out in the sun. Five kilometers felt more like 10 in the sand, but finally, the shipwreck appeared before us. A few other hikers were leaving, and we had the place to ourselves. The Pesuta was built for WWI as part of the emergency shipbuilding program. When it retired, it made its way to Haida Gwaii, where it was retrofitted as a log hauler for the logging industry on the Haida’s traditional lands. It didn’t last long, as the stormy weather that the area is notorious for (always be prepared for delayed and canceled ferries, flights, and excursions) ran it aground. Here, it has remained for nearly 100 years. The way back took us away from the beach and the forest into the Nee Kun Protected Area, co-managed by the Haida Nation and BC Parks, combining Indigneous knowledge and stewardship with BC Parks research and science. We followed the trail markers that resembled salmons done in Haida-style art. The protected area is home to an intertidal river with protected and sensitive plants, swans, salmon, trout, bats, black bears, shorebirds, and more. After the hike, we enjoyed dinner back at our accommodation. The vegetarian food was limited - but delicious, as they prioritize Indigenous foods. A highlight was the cocktails made with locally foraged, culturally important berries. Since our accommodation is Haida-owned and employs Haida members, our server shared lots of Indigneous knowledge regarding berries on the island, which came in useful for snacking on our future hikes.

Plugging our EV into one of Canada's rural slow charger, we pondered how to spend the day in a town of less than 800. The answer led us to a pivotal decision—we started walking in a place most drive through, setting the stage for a serendipitous cultural experience. We padded along a multi-use path used by locals to reach our destination, Gaw Xaad kil (Old Masset). Some would greet us, “Gasanuu dang Giiydang” or “How are you?” A red dress stuck to a telephone, a dark reminder of the missing and murdered Indigneous women. I sat on a bench hand-carved with skaana (orca) to rest. Eagles perched on modified telephone poles designed to prevent electrocution. When we finally entered the village, we saw a sign in a driveway for a local home gallery. We stepped up hesitantly - my hand hovering by the doorbell, wondering why we were the only ones there. I finally rang. The door opened, welcoming us to the private gallery and home of April White, an Indigenous Haida artist and scientist. She sat at a desk, busy with work, but encouraged us to ask questions. Art covered the walls. We talked about ecology, geology, and Haida Gwaii, learning she was a geologist and artist expressing science through art. She depicted predatory animals in the stomachs of their prey—a harbor seal inside a herring. When I asked why, she said, “Most view predators eating the prey, but we Haida see the prey giving life (like birth) to the predator.” I finally found a piece that spoke to me, bought it supporting her endeavors, and thanked her for her hospitality. We continued our walk, passing the Chief’s traditional Longhouse with three monumental (totem) poles telling stories of his clan, the village, and his late son. Eventually, we came to a popular tourist souvenir shop. Car after car pulled in, each one blasted past April’s Gallery. We left not long after arriving, not loving the chaos. I left clinging to my new art, thankful that walking on foot allowed me to enjoy a unique cultural experience. With plenty of time left to go before our car was charged, we visited the Nature Center at Delkatla, a small museum, ate from a food truck, bought local goods, and just wandered.