Scotland's Stories

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Scottish storyteller, writer and travelblogger, sharing the stories of Scotland with the help of a tireless labrador.

Helping people get more out of their journey through Scotland!

Graeme & Molly

Location Edinburgh
Country United Kingdom
Member Since JULY 23, 2022
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Highlights

From the 8th century, Scotland, along with the rest of the British Isles, were facing sudden, relentless waves of powerful, seafaring invaders. Not Labradors but Vikings! This corner of the Isle of Arran overlooking the Holy Isle is known as Kingscross and Molly is sitting right on top of the Viking Fort. It's a little bit of a confusing name since the fort is actually from the Iron Age, although we can be sure that the Vikings made good use of it. Just behind the fort area, a rare Viking boat burial was discovered along with coins, burnt bones, carved whalebone and plenty of iron nails. As the Vikings swept down the West Coast of Scotland, they found the sheltered bays and deep sea lochs were perfect for longships and before long, Scandinavian warlords were firmly in control. It would be around 400 years before the Scots finally took back the islands for themselves. Those Vikings left behind evidence of their time here not just in boat burials and stories, but in the language and place names around the coast and islands of Scotland. Arran was a perfect base for seaborne raiders. Around 870, we know that Olaf the White sailed with his band of Vikings from Ireland into the Firth of Clyde and set up base on Arran. From here, he attacked a fortress on Dumbarton Rock, beseiging it for 4 months until the defenders ran out of water. With the fortress out the way, Olaf and his men could sail at will from Arran right up the Clyde and it took 200 ships to get all of their plunder and prisoners back to Ireland. It takes a bit of a walk to get to Arran's Viking Fort and a good amount of imagination once you're there to really appreciate it. As a link to one of the most fascinating groups of people in history, I think it's incredible. For some reason, there aren't many words that get the historical blood pumping more than "Vikings"! #Scotland #VisitScotland #VisitArran #ScotlandIsNow

The sea stacks around St Kilda are impressive sights, but how would you like to be stuck on one for 9 months? Without lots of land to farm on their tiny island 40 miles west of the Western Isles, the St Kildan's diet consisted mostly of seabirds. In 1764, it was recorded that they ate 36 eggs and 18 fowls a day! That meant that occasionally, the islanders had to collect their meals from the stacks that surrounded the main island Hirta. They would be rowed out and dropped off (since there's nowhere to safely moor) for an agreed number of days before they and their precious cargo was picked up again. However, in August 1727, after three men and eight boys had finished their hunting on Stac an Armin, the pickup boat didn't appear. They had no way of getting back home and no idea that the main island had suffered a devastating smallpox (probably) outbreak. Dozens had died in the 2 weeks since they had left and the community was so devastated that there was nobody to row out to the stack and rescue the group of 11. They were forced to survive on rainwater and the birds, huddling in a small Bothy all winter until May the next year! They might consider themselves lucky that they were spared the sickness, but I doubt it felt like that as the wind howled and the sea swells crashed against the rock. Their real bit of luck was being spotted by the MacLeod chief's Factor as he sailed past to collect the St Kildan's rent! It's an amazing story of survival and a reminder of just how precarious life was like in these wee island communities. #Scotland #StKilda #VisitScotland #ScotlandIsNow

Time to put the Scotland's Stories book to good use, finding wee places in Scotland with BIG stories! Guarding an old crossing point of Loch Carron, the ruined Strome Castle was once part of the wide network of sea-based strongholds reporting to the MacDonald Lords of The Isles. By the 16th century, Strome Castle was in the hands of the MacDonells who had a long running feud with their neighbours the Mackenzies. Unfortunately, Kenneth Mackenzie was a royal teacher's pet, successfully gaining power and territory by subduing his neighbours as the King’s representative in the northwest. Some MacDonells would be killed, then a few Mackenzies slain in retaliation. Back and forward it went. Eventually, the two clan chiefs both went to the King to complain about each other. Mackenzie showed his experience in navigating the Scottish court, along with some dramatic flare, by producing the bloody shirt of his clansman to the council. When MacDonell saw the way things were going, he fled back north and refused to be summoned to Edinburgh. Declared an outlaw, Strome Castle was now fair game and the Mackenzies were only too happy to lay siege in 1602. The story goes that no matter how hard the Mackenzies tried, they just couldn't break down Strome’s strong walls. Every time they tried an assault, the MacDonell guns successfully fought them off. The besiegers were ready to give up and head home when they had a stroke of luck. One of the castle servants was filling up barrels with water inside the walls, when in the darkness, they accidentally poured the buckets into the last barrel of gunpowder. A Mackenzie prisoner overheard the servant getting an earful and shouted to his clansmen outside that the castle was now defenceless! The MacDonells had no choice but to surrender and the Mackenzies used their gunpowder to blow the castle up. You can still see huge chunks of masonry right where they landed during the blast 400 years ago! Find more tales like this in the Scotland's Stories book, available through the link in my bio or in all good bookshops. If you're looking for a signed copy then get in touch and I might be able to help! #Scotland #ScottishHistory

Not so much a story today as a warning - Don't try and use an umbrella at the Quiraing on Skye... This happened immediately after I said, "Bet you a fiver that goes inside out." I strongly considered going double or nothing that they might end up flying away like Mary Poppins...

Buried away in the woods below Rosslyn Chapel, the incredible Roslin Castle is often completely missed by those visiting the famous church. It's an otherworldly place though, with some magical stories to match! The castle sits in a beautiful position, high on a rock above a winding river with an impressive archway that would once have been a drawbridge. At first, it looks like just a couple of pillars, long wall and a little cottage. However, make your way underneath the arch and you’ll find the rest of the castle built into the side of the cliff. The Sinclair family who owned Roslin Castle are surrounded by myths and legends, from Templar Knights to the Holy Grail. During a fire in the 15th century, William Sinclair the Baron of Roslin was in such a panic about losing his library, that he forced his chaplain back in to save certain documents. While the castle burned around him, the poor man dutifully lowered baskets of books and scrolls down from a window to safety. It makes you wonder what treasures might have been important enough to risk his life for... Around 400 years later, it’s said that an Italian descendant of the last provost of Rosslyn Chapel arrived at the now ruined castle. Following instructions from his ancestor, he discovered a secret room full of ancient manuscripts, hidden in the vaults. Without revealing what he found, the stories claim that they were all taken to the secure section of the Vatican library, where they remain to this day! If you're ever lucky enough to find yourself inside Roslin Castle, there is still one legend to be fulfilled. Stand on the correct step of the correct staircase and blow a horn, then a sleeping lady will wake up and guide you to a great treasure! Some of the castle remains are actually open as holiday accommodation and they're currently finishing off a renovation to make even more of it available! These stories behind Roslin Castle are just one of many you can find in the Scotland's Stories book, available either in the link in my bio, through all good booksellers or by sending me a message! #Scotland #VisitScotland #ScotlandIsNow #ScottishCastle

This is Kilfinan Church on the banks of Loch Fyne, somewhere I almost drove right past until a Sixth Sense told me I should stop and have a look. As you can probabily tell from the video, I'm very glad that I did. Anywhere with the prefix Kil- in Scotland is usually the site of a very old church. It comes from the Gaelic for Cell, not the jail kind but the hermit-holy-man kind! So this would be the church of St Finan and as far as we know, the earliest part of the building dates back to the 13th century. From the road that runs along the south side of Loch Fyne, it looks like a pretty, but fairly regular looking, small parish church. However, head around to the back and prepare to be very surprised! This is the Lamont Vault, burial place for chiefs of Clan Lamont who are one of the oldest clans in Scotland, with a strong presence around Cowal. Its said that in Scotland's earliest days the Lamonts held all of this part of Argyll until Stewarts, Campbells and MacLachlans moved into the area. While the burial space wasn’t added until 1633 by Sir Coll Lamont, it’s now used to hold several earlier graveslabs. Many were created for chiefs of the Lamonts or other notable and show the typical yet incredible Highland warrior style. Kilfinan Church isn't a big place but things like this make it a very special one. Proof that you shouldn't judge a book by its cover and you should always be willing to have a wee explore! #Scotland #VisitScotland #ScotlandTravel

Here's a throwback to one of last year's Wee Wednesday Wanders around the island of Islay in the Inner Hebrides! Home to nine whisky distilleries, it's famous for smokey whisky, but there's lots more to see around the island than the bottom of a glass! This is by no means everything and doesn't feature the amazing food we had, but if you're planning a weekend break, this is a great achievable itinerary for you without rushing around. Whisky, castles, seals, crosses, chapels, clifftop walks and golden beaches. Not bad for one wee island! #Scotland #VisitScotland #ScotlandIsNow #ScotlandTravel #VisitIslay

I don't have a story for you today, but I've got a whole lot of Scotland to show you! Currently on day 5 of a fantastic tour where we've been mixing in plenty of lesser-visited spots amongst the big name places! After a day exploring Edinburgh, Roslin Glen and the Scottish Borders (ending with a dram at Scott's view of course), we set out west. Stirling Castle was as beautiful but as busy as ever, so we followed it up with a journey down the quiet side of Loch Fyne and a clamber around Old Castle Lachlan. From our overnight spot at Inveraray, we headed for Dunadd - capital and coronation spot for the Kings of Dalriada! Then it was time for one of my favourite activities, exploring the wee chapels on the Argyll Peninsulas! What even I wasn't expecting were the scarecrows scattered around the Slate Isles! Learnt a lot about crow scaring from my new pal at the Bridge over the Atlantic... Yesterday was spent on the Isle of Mull, first at the ever impressive Duart Castle and then a trip around the slow road - easily one of the best drives in Scotland! Right now, I'm standing at Fionnphort in the southwest of Mull waiting for a ferry to Iona. This wee island, where St Columba established his monastery in 563, is as historically and spiritually important as it is beautiful and it's looking like a beautiful day! #Scotland #ScotlandTravel #ScotlandTour

If it wasn't for the Battle of Stirling Bridge, we might never have heard of William Wallace and we certainly wouldn't have the National Wallace Monument here to visit and remember Scotland's National Hero! #AD - @thewallacemon This soaring tower stands atop the Abbey Craig where Wallace and his co-commander Andrew de Moray watched an English army of around 9000 gather on the opposite side of the river. If you held Stirling, then you held Scotland and this fight is one of the most pivotal events in the city's 900-year history! On the 11th September 1297, around 5000 Scottish spearmen stood waiting for their larger, more experienced enemy, with only the narrow, wooden Stirling Bridge separating them. The English commander was the Earl of Surrey and he was rightfully concerned at how long it would take his men to cross over. However, his deputy, Hugh de Cressingham was impatient and as the English Treasurer in Scotland, wanted to get the battle over with quickly. His demand that Surrey move across the river and attack worked but with one condition - Cressingham had to lead them. He was overconfident that once across and neatly line up, the English heavy cavalry would mow down the lightly armoured Scots. But Wallace and Moray weren't daft. When just enough of the English army were across the bridge, the Scots attacked. They advanced in enormous schiltrons, tightly packed groups of men bristling with spears like angry hedgehogs. As their opponents struggled to form up, they found themselves trapped. With the river looping around them on three sides, there was no escape from the approaching spears. Those still trying to cross the bridge could do nothing but watch the slaughter as English knights were cut down or drowned trying to swim to safety. The hasty Cressingham was killed and at some point, the bridge collapsed. Whether that was from the weight of jostling soldiers, a plan by the Scots or an order from Surrey to stop his men being chased, we'll never know for sure. What's for certain is that there's no better place to learn about the Battle of Stirling Bridge than here at the National Wallace Monument! #NationalWallaceMonument #Stirling900 #Scotland

Welcome to Molly's favourite castle, one you can only get to by swimming (or by bringing a boat). Innis Chonnel Castle on Loch Awe is the older, less visited sister of Kilchurn Castle, further along the loch. Only a fraction of the people who drive past Loch Awe every day even know about Innis Chonnel, never mind make the effort to visit. Hidden away on its little island, far down the quiet side of the loch, this was one of Clan Campbells earliest and most impressive strongholds. This was likely where the clan's vast empire began, an impregnable stronghold, but in the 15th century, they left it all behind! The Campbells moved their main residence to Inveraray on Loch Fyne with its access to the open sea. The old castle at Innis Chonnel became a secure prison. Donald Dubh Macdonald, heir to the Lordship of the Isles but with a Campbell mother, was captured as a baby and imprisoned here in the 15th century. His father and grandfather had continually rebelled against the Scottish Crown and now Donald was paying for it. The boy grew into a man while locked in his island prison, until a daring rescue by his clansmen whisked him away to the Isle of Lewis. Donald made his old man proud by rebelling against the King, only to end up captured once again and held in Edinburgh Castle for almost 40 years. Old Donald was finally released in 1543, maybe for good behaviour, but if so, that didn't last long. He almost immediately declared yet another rebellion, signing a pact with the English King Henry VIII and promising to raise 8000 men. Even though the islanders were angry at the way they and their chiefs had been treated, Donald Dubh struggled to gather his army. He retired to the safety of Ireland where he could plan his next expedition and sadly died there from a fever. Poor Donald had spent less than 10 years of his entire life as a free man, but at least his teenage years had spent in as picturesque a spot as Innis Chonnel Castle! #Scotland #VisitScotland #ScotlandIsNow #ScotlandTravel #ScottishCastle

If you like prehistoric monuments but don't want to fight with busloads of other people, you'll want to head to Corrimony Chambered Cairn. It's only 15 minutes away from Drumnadrochit and the edge of Loch Ness, so barely even off the beaten path. This burial cairn is around 4000 years old, surrounded by a dozen standing stones, covered in smaller cobbles and would have originally had a large capstone lid, which is now lying to the side. Corrimony is much more complete than similar chambered cairns and it's a tight squeeze, but even I managed to clamber through the passage into the middle. Thankfully, it's also avoided the atmospheric druid groves and much of the landscaping that many sites like this gained from well-meaning Victorians. When it comes to stories or answers, monuments like this can be tricky. It's clear evidence of our ancient ancestors' lives and beliefs, but on the other hand, we know so little about them. Sadly, early antiquarians and amateur archaeologists often did more damage than good in their search for answers. Without knowing it, they usually disturbed what may have been invaluable to modern-day scientists. One thing we do know about Corrimony though is that someone was placed inside a very long time ago. The faint remains of a body were found in the central chamber, only identified by the shadowy shape of phosphorus in the soil, leaked from the bones as they decayed. Comparing the way the body was positioned with other, better preserved, remains from a similar time, archaeologists believe this was a woman, but really, it's impossible to say for sure. Was she a queen, a priestess, a sacrifice to the gods or something else? Maybe one day we might find out some answers! #Scotland #VisitScotland #ScotlandIsNow #LochNess #ScottishHistory

I haven't been able to get out and about to film on camera recently, so here's an older video with one of my favourite stories! My microphone had died halfway through the first take, so it's a wee bit quieter than expected. This is a place I love visiting, the grave of Seath Mòr Sgorfhiaclach, which means Great/Big Shaw the Bucktoothed. He was Chief of Clan Shaw in the 14th century, a turbulent period when this fearsome warrior came into his own. It's said that his spirit wanders the area near the Doune of Rothiemurchus and this old church, challenging unsuspecting travellers to a fight. If you listen carefully to the video, right when I warn people not to scream and run away, Molly lets out a big whine and almost throws me off! The cage isn't a mortsafe (metal contraptions to protect graves from bodysnatchers), it was actually only put there in the 1980s to stop people from touching 5 stones that lie on top of the graveslab. Legend says they're either cursed or protected by a creature known as the Bodach. There are plenty of stories of people messing with the stones either out of ignorance or an attempt to prove the story was nonsense. Every one of them met with disaster or illness, even if all they had done was turn one of the stones a little. In extreme cases, folk were stealing them to throw in the river for a laugh, which is why the cage was added by concerned locals. It's a good thing they did otherwise who knows how many more people would have fallen victim to their own stupidity... I'm happy to report that Molly and I made it safely out without a sniff of Seath Mòr, although I was ready for the challenge. Maybe he just doesn't like the rain? #Scotland #ScotlandsStories #ScottishFolklore #ScottishHistory #VisitScotland #ScotlandIsNow #LoveScotland #SimplyScotland #YourScotland

Have you ever visited Dunvegan Castle on Skye and spotted a strange horn in the corner? That's Rory Mor's Drinking Horn and it's one of Clan MacLeod's greatest treasures! Tradition states that any future chief of the Clan has to prove themselves by drinking an entire horn full of wine! The picture next to this heirloom shows the current MacLeod chief's father, John MacLeod of MacLeod, finishing the job in 1 minute 57 seconds. Apparently, it holds around a litre and a half and must be drained all in one go! Rather them than me... Rory Mor was one of the best remembered MacLeod chiefs from the late 16th, early 17th centuries. He fought in the last battles that took place in the Isle of Skye, including a fierce feud with the MacDonalds known as the War of the One Eyed Woman. The horn might be named after Rory, but it's thought to date from much earlier than his time. Some antique experts believe it to be Norse and 1000 years old, a throwback to the Macleod's origins, but others think it comes from one of the clan's most famous stories. In the 1300s, the 3rd MacLeod chief was an enormous warrior called Malcolm, as handsome as he was strong. He had fallen in love with the beautiful wife of Fraser of Glenelg and would often sneak over to the mainland to try and convince her to leave her husband! One moonlit night, as he was leaving Glenelg to return to Skye, a wild bull burst from the undergrowth and attacked him. MacLeod's men, too far away to help, roared at their chief "Hold Fast" as he grappled with its horns. Just in time, the warrior managed to get a hand on his dirk and kill the bull, taking a horn from its head as a trophy. Malcolm's lover was so impressed by this show of strength that she agreed to run away to Dunvegan with him! That's why the MacLeod crest shows a bull above the words "Hold Fast" and also why they never got on with the Frasers! Rory Mor might have given his name to the horn of Dunvegan, but when you see it, make sure to remember big Malcolm and his wandering eye as well... #Scotland #VisitScotland #ScotlandIsNow #ScottishHistory #ScotlandTravel #IsleOfSkye #ClanMacleod

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